How to buy the right red-light device
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@DavidPS said in How to buy the right red-light device:
Dr. Peat liked incandescent light. He liked the spectrum produced from running 130 volt incandescent bulbs in a 120 volt system. That is what influenced me to purchase this pool light in 2016. It is still buring brightly today.
I was not certain if the 130v bulb would be throwing off enough heat to melt a plastic socket. So I got a unit similar to this one with a ceramic socket.
BAYCO SL-302B3 10-1/2-Inch Clamp Light
Porcelain Ceramic Socket -
@DavidPS Interesting, don't think 130 volt would work here in europe though.
When I asked ray about light he always recommended the incandescent lights. Don't know if it was his thing with keeping it low cost (keep it real yo) or disdain towards led lights. When I asked red light man he said incandescent light bulbs are very inefficient, producing mostly heat.
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@heyman said in How to buy the right red-light device:
Interesting, don't think 130 volt would work here in europe though.
I'm guessing they mean 130W bulbs. As in watts, not in voltage. The stronger incandescent bulbs have a nicer spectrum closer to daylight in comparison to the low wattage ones which tend to be very yellowish and lacking contrast. The picture above looks more like sunlight spectrum through window glass and not quite right for an incandescent spectrum as there would be much more "wasted" energy in the IR part beyond 800nm. Which makes incandescent uncomfortable at close range unless it's very evenly spread as it comprises the peak frequencies for heating up tissue water. Maybe the graph's curve is a due to a restricted spectrum range of the measuring equipment.
