Hi everyone.
This is my new batch:
1.5% Dextrose
1.5% Dexpanthenol
1% L-Lactic Acid
1% Potassiumbicarbonate (to buffer part of the LA to lactate and provide potassium)
0.5% 1% Glycerine (to increase viscosity and skin adhesion of the solution + emulsification)
0.5% 0.8% alpha-Bisabolol (antiinflammatory + antimicrobial + humectant + reductant)
0.6% Vitamin E (equals 15mg=22IU per 2.5mL) (needs an extra solubilizer!)
0.4% Allantoin (antiinflammatory + proliferative + keratolytic + humectant)
0.33% L-Threonine (as a source for protein energy + L-Glycine)
0.05% Pirocton olamine (antifungal to counteract the topical glucose. This is more of a preemptive measure as I lack the diagnostics to discover or evaluate fungal influences)
0.05% Centella asiatica oil (needs an extra solubilizer!) (for collagen synthesis and inhibit collagen type III fibrosis)
0.002% Apigenin (for HDACi. Equals 5mg per 2.5mL; maybe needs more. If in capsules with fillers: Must be soaked in alcohol first, then filtered, then added. Otherwise the blend will be cloudy and looking "yeasty" and application will leave visible filler particles on the hair)
0.002% Green tea extract powder (50% EGCG) (for HDACi. Use alcoholic filtrate)
0.45% (w/w) 0.5% Rokonsal BSB-N: Benzyl alcohol, glycerine, benzoic acid, sorbic acid (as antibacterial + antifungal preservative)
5% Alcohol (Ethanol 96%) (for solubility of pirocton olamin and some mediocre solubility of bisabolol).
-> about pH 4.5
Edit:
I've worked through it again and adjusted the text above. Here's why:
| Glycerine 0.5% is enough since 1) the dexpanthenol already provides a good texture, 2) the preservative also contains some glycerine, 3) it's not useful as an emulsifier for any of the ingredients here.
| alpa-Bisabolol is an oil and insoluble in water or glycerine. We need a solubilizer for it or will float on top. Or just bodge it with alcohol in which it is somewhat soluble and leaves a film on top. 0.5% is still very generous as I've seen commercial skincare sera recipes with only 0.1-0.2% bisabolol (racemic).
| Vitamin E oil (natural): This needs a solubilizer if we want to have it pretty. Ethanol disperses just a part of into a milky solution. It still floats on top as small oily droplets.
| Allantoin 0.4% is generous. Probably a reduction to 0.1-0.2% would still be fine. It's fairly water-soluble; up to 0.5%.
| L-Threonine is probably fairly useless here. I'd rather include L-proline and ascorbylpalmitate.
| Centella asiatica oil: Needs a solubilizer like PEG-40 hydr. ricinus oil or something more natural. Otherwise it floats on top.
| Rokonsal only 0.45% (w/w, ie. about 0.4% v/v); a little less because its aqueous solubility threshold is about 0.6%.
| Pirocton olamine (powder) is requires a 1-10% alcohol solution for solubility. It's insoluble in water and glycerine.
| Green tea / EGCG. I've added this to complement the Apigenin.
So, overall it's not the prettiest blend yet because I haven't used solubilizers. I'm a beginner in the world of cosmetics/skincare manufacture. The benzoic/sorbic acid preservative smells slightly almondy-fruity-sweet-alcoholic. One may choose to cover that with other fragrances or use a different preservative.
Will see how it goes with this one. Any thoughts and suggestions?